Japan Central Alps

I picked up a Moto Guzzi in the morning to ride to the Mt. Fuji area, both excited and nervous. My biggest worry was getting out of the middle of Tokyo, where the shop is, but the Ninja Tours team escorted me to the edge of the city and onto the expressway. Riding on the other side of the road was a challenge, but orderly traffic and the good manners of local drivers made it easy to get used to.

On the way I stopped in Yamanashi, about two hours west of Tokyo, to meet a friend at Budo no Oka (Grape Hill). The area is like the Napa Valley of Japan: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Merlot alongside local grapes like Koshu and Muscat Bailey A. I had no idea Japan had vineyards!

Hotel Mifujien by 4 pm, in time for an onsen bath to de-stress from a day of firsts: first time on a Moto Guzzi, first time on Japanese roads. A 12.5-tatami room with its own bath and a view of Mt. Fuji, but I had the communal bath all to myself. Dinner and breakfast in the communal dining hall: small portions of salad, fish, meat and vegetable dishes, and a cold draft beer.

Through the central mountain ranges, a warm-up before the real Alps, with a coffee break at Lake Suwa. Gero Onsen is one of Japan’s five best hot-spring resort areas.

Yunoshimakan, built in 1931 by Hida artisans in the traditional sukiya style, has hosted Emperor Showa and Emperor Akihito; the main building is a National Tangible Cultural Asset, set in a great forest with a view of nature from every room.

Over the Suzuran Skyline to Takayama and on to Matsumoto Castle. Ninja Tours offers three routes for the day; the long one is best with a 10 am start.

Ryokan Sugimoto, Ninja Tours’ most highly rated ryokan among its riders: a ten-tatami room, Matsumoto soba and Azumino wasabi.

Fill the tank, then the world-famous Venus Line over Utsukushigahara before a great stretch of riding south and on toward Kusatsu.

An amazing stretch of road with many twists and turns and amazing vistas, over the Manza Highway and the Shiga Kogen area. There is an easier 97 km option that skips the twisty bits.

Naraya Ryokan is over 100 years old and a designated historical landmark.

A really pretty ride along the Sea of Japan coast up to Yunohama, with the ryokan right in front of the sea.

Deep into the mountains: non-stop great riding over and along mountains and valleys, finishing on the Hachimantai Aspite Line. The only rain of the trip was up here, in June’s rainy season.

The last bit of great mountain riding before heading down to lower valleys past several scenic lakes.

A nice bit of technical riding on the Zao Echo Line around Mt. Zao, then the Bandai-Azuma Lake Line and Urabandai before things get more relaxed.

A bit of highway to get into position, then a fantastic afternoon on the Bandai-Azuma Skyline and the Nikko Momiji Line into Nikko. Great scenery and fun roads.

One final bit of twisty riding, then the highway back into Tokyo to return the bike.