Traveling Woodpecker

Japan / 2025

May 15–22, 2025 · Ninja Tours motorcycle tour

Japan Central Alps

Back to Japan with Ninja Tours for eight days: out of Tokyo into the mountains of Niigata, north along the Sea of Japan coast, up into Akita and Tohoku, and back through Inawashiro and Uonuma.

km
~2,031
riding days
8
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OnsenKanoseYunohama OnsenLake TazawaNaruko OnsenInawashiroMinamiuonuma
Route traced from the original ride plan.

Day 1 · Thu, May 15

Tokyo Matsunoyama Onsen

~296 km

The Ninja Tours team guided us out of Tokyo to the expressway. The scenic Route 292 from Kusatsu to Yamanouchi through Joshin’etsu Kogen National Park was closed, and after getting a little lost, the alternate Route 112 turned out to be spectacular.

Izumiya at Matsunoyama Onsen: salty natural hot-spring water, dinner, and a modern bar.

Ueno, Tokyo, two nights before the ride (May 13)
Ueno, Tokyo, two nights before the ride (May 13)
Trip orientation at Rush Bikes (May 14)
Trip orientation at Rush Bikes (May 14)
Bikes parked at Izumiya, Matsunoyama Onsen
Bikes parked at Izumiya, Matsunoyama Onsen
Ponshu
Ponshu
The village street in Matsunoyama
The village street in Matsunoyama
Dinner at Izumiya
Dinner at Izumiya
Local sake at Ponshu
Local sake at Ponshu

Overnight

Izumiya, Matsunoyama Onsen

Day 2 · Fri, May 16

Matsunoyama Onsen Kanose

~179 km

Past the ski slopes of Matsunoyama and through many, many tunnels, with motorcycle parking at the expressway service areas, to Kanose on the Agano River.

Matsunoyama ski slope
Matsunoyama ski slope
The Agano River at Kanose
The Agano River at Kanose
The lobby at Fukusen
The lobby at Fukusen
Dinner at Kanose
Dinner at Kanose
A local wine with dinner
A local wine with dinner
The private bath at Ekaki-no-Yado Fukusen
The private bath at Ekaki-no-Yado Fukusen
My room at Fukusen
My room at Fukusen

Overnight

Ekaki-no-Yado Fukusen, Kanose

Day 3 · Sat, May 17

Kanose Yunohama Onsen

~264 km

North to the Sea of Japan coast at Yunohama Onsen.

Morning in the tatami room at Fukusen
Morning in the tatami room at Fukusen
The hot-spring bath overlooking the river
The hot-spring bath overlooking the river
Breakfast at Fukusen
Breakfast at Fukusen
Yusuitei Isagoya, Yunohama Onsen
Yusuitei Isagoya, Yunohama Onsen
Grilled beef and vegetables at Isagoya, Yunohama
Grilled beef and vegetables at Isagoya, Yunohama

Overnight

Yusuitei Isagoya, Yunohama Onsen

Day 4 · Sun, May 18

Yunohama Onsen Lake Tazawa

~222 km

A coffee and sandwich stop
A coffee and sandwich stop
A shrine on Lake Tazawa
A shrine on Lake Tazawa
The golden Tatsuko statue on Lake Tazawa
The golden Tatsuko statue on Lake Tazawa
Matcha on arrival
Matcha on arrival
Our room at Lake Tazawa
Our room at Lake Tazawa
The dinner table
The dinner table
Local sake for dinner
Local sake for dinner
Sea urchin
Sea urchin
A baked scallop course
A baked scallop course
Futon laid out for the night
Futon laid out for the night

Overnight

A ryokan at Lake Tazawa

Day 5 · Mon, May 19

Lake Tazawa Naruko Onsen

~211 km

Breakfast at Lake Tazawa
Breakfast at Lake Tazawa
Lake Tazawa in the morning
Lake Tazawa in the morning
Our ryokan at Lake Tazawa
Our ryokan at Lake Tazawa
The ryokan gate
The ryokan gate
A ramen stop for lunch
A ramen stop for lunch
The all-you-can-drink badge at Hotel Yumoto Kissho
The all-you-can-drink badge at Hotel Yumoto Kissho
The bikes in the hotel garage
The bikes in the hotel garage

Overnight

Hotel Yumoto Kissho, Naruko Onsen

Day 6 · Tue, May 20

Naruko Onsen Inawashiro

~299 km

A rainy stop by a mountain tunnel
A rainy stop by a mountain tunnel
My room in Inawashiro
My room in Inawashiro
The stone hot-spring bath
The stone hot-spring bath
French dinner at Inawashiro “Beehive”
French dinner at Inawashiro “Beehive”

Day 7 · Wed, May 21

Inawashiro Minamiuonuma

~246 km

Leaving the inn in Inawashiro
Leaving the inn in Inawashiro
Ready to ride out of Inawashiro
Ready to ride out of Inawashiro
The first course at Ryugon
The first course at Ryugon

Day 8 · Thu, May 22

Minamiuonuma Tokyo

~314 km

Rice paddies at dawn in Minamiuonuma
Rice paddies at dawn in Minamiuonuma
The breakfast room
The breakfast room
Wonderful dinner at Sushi Aki Takase with Rushcorp staff
Wonderful dinner at Sushi Aki Takase with Rushcorp staff

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