Traveling Woodpecker

Norway / 2023

July 9–19, 2023 · Ten-day motorcycle tour

Norway: Fjords & Scenic Routes

A 1,150-mile loop from Stavanger through Western Norway’s fjord country, riding seven of the National Scenic Routes, from Ryfylke and Hardanger to Geiranger–Trollstigen and Sognefjellet, with a day off the bikes for the train and a hike at Finse.

miles
1,150
riding days
9
National Scenic Routes
7
Route map of the ride
The loop as ridden, about 1,150 miles.

National Scenic Routes

Ryfylke, Hardanger, Gaularfjellet, Geiranger–Trollstigen, Gamle Strynefjellsvegen, Sognefjellet, Aurlandsfjellet

Road signs

E = European route · Rv = national road · Fv = county road · Kv = municipal road · Tv = tourist road

Arrive · Jul 8–9

Stavanger

From the airport, take a luggage cart and walk to the hotel, about 12 minutes.

Connecting through Oslo
Connecting through Oslo
Flying in over the fjords
Flying in over the fjords
Clarion Hotel Air, Sola
Clarion Hotel Air, Sola
Dinner at the Clarion
Dinner at the Clarion
The delayed bags have arrived!
The delayed bags have arrived!
Breakfast at the hotel
Breakfast at the hotel
Stavanger Airport, Sola
Stavanger Airport, Sola
Old Stavanger
Old Stavanger
The cobbled lanes of Gamle Stavanger
The cobbled lanes of Gamle Stavanger
At the Norwegian Canning Museum
At the Norwegian Canning Museum
Sardine tins at the Canning Museum
Sardine tins at the Canning Museum
Planning the route
Planning the route

Day 1 · Mon, Jul 10

Stavanger Jondal

174 mi · about 5 hr 40 min

Bike pickup → Hjelmeland ferry1 hr 20

→ Ostasteidn viewpoint1 hr 3

→ Allmannajuvet47 min

→ Horda53 min

→ Hardanger House1 hr 33

Pick up the bikes at 9 am, then straight into Ryfast, the world’s longest and deepest undersea road tunnel, about 8 miles and 13 minutes to Tau. The Ryfylke Scenic Route carries on north; on the E134, turn onto Røldalsfjellet.

Hardanger House is a family-owned design hotel of just nine rooms, each with fjord views, between the Hardangerfjord and Folgefonna National Park. Dinner is a set three-course menu at 7 pm.

Picking up the bikes
Picking up the bikes
AllSupermoto, Stavanger
AllSupermoto, Stavanger
On the Hjelmeland ferry
On the Hjelmeland ferry
Fjord views from the ferry
Fjord views from the ferry
Mountain lakes on the Ryfylke route
Mountain lakes on the Ryfylke route
Rain on the mountain road
Rain on the mountain road
Looking down the valley
Looking down the valley
Låtefossen, the twin waterfall
Låtefossen, the twin waterfall
Hardanger House, Jondal
Hardanger House, Jondal
Hardanger House
Hardanger House

Day 2 · Tue, Jul 11

Jondal Bergen

60 mi · about 2 hr 20 min

Ferry Jondal → Tørvikbygd9:20 am, hourly

→ Steinsdalsfossen57 min

→ Bergen1 hr 30

Along the Hardanger Scenic Route to Steinsdalsfossen, the waterfall you can walk behind, then on to Bergen.

Dinner at Bryggeriet, the only restaurant in town with its own brewery.

Radisson Blu Royal Hotel, Bergen
Radisson Blu Royal Hotel, Bergen
Bergen from above
Bergen from above
Meeting up with Norwegian YouTuber Thomas Hansen
Meeting up with Norwegian YouTuber Thomas Hansen youtube.com/@tshansen
Dinner at Bryggeriet on the harbor
Dinner at Bryggeriet on the harbor
Mussels and a house-brewed beer at Bryggeriet
Mussels and a house-brewed beer at Bryggeriet

Along the way

Overnight

Radisson Blu Royal Hotel, Bergen

Day 3 · Wed, Jul 12

Bergen Balestrand

153 mi · about 5 hr 40 min

→ Mo1 hr 18

→ Double Drop waterfall1 hr 4

→ Myrkdalen viewpoint1 hr 11

→ Vikafjellsvegen1 hr 10

→ Kviknes Hotel1 hr 8

North over the mountains on the Vikafjell road to the Sognefjord.

Kviknes Hotel’s hospitality goes back to 1752, and the Kvikne family has run it since 1877: 190 rooms, a collection of art and antiques, and a guest list that includes Kaiser Wilhelm II, a frequent visitor to Balestrand.

Bryggen early in the morning
Bryggen early in the morning
Waterfalls on the way north
Waterfalls on the way north
A quiet fjord
A quiet fjord
An old stone bridge
An old stone bridge
A stop on the way
A stop on the way
Tvindefossen
Tvindefossen
Snow and lakes on Vikafjellet
Snow and lakes on Vikafjellet
A Kinn Vestkyst IPA at Kviknes
A Kinn Vestkyst IPA at Kviknes
St. Olaf’s Church, Balestrand
St. Olaf’s Church, Balestrand
Inside St. Olaf’s Church
Inside St. Olaf’s Church

Day 4 · Thu, Jul 13

Balestrand Ålesund

204 mi · about 5 hr 45 min

→ Gaularfjellet Utsikten40 min

→ Bakkane viewpoint2 hr

→ Festøy ferry2 hr 17

→ Hotel Brosundet54 min

Over the Gaularfjellet Scenic Route and its Utsikten viewpoint, then north to the coast and Ålesund.

Hotel Brosundet is an intimate, family-owned hotel in restored fishery warehouses whose walls meet the water of Brosundet, right in the center of town, with fresh local seafood at its restaurant.

Kviknes Hotel, Balestrand
Kviknes Hotel, Balestrand
Balestrand in the morning
Balestrand in the morning
A carved chair at Kviknes
A carved chair at Kviknes
Hairpins on Gaularfjellet
Hairpins on Gaularfjellet
Hotel Brosundet, Ålesund
Hotel Brosundet, Ålesund
The atrium at Hotel Brosundet
The atrium at Hotel Brosundet
A drink in Ålesund
A drink in Ålesund
Oysters from Normandie, France
Oysters from Normandie, France

Day 5 · Fri, Jul 14

Ålesund Grotli

167 mi · about 5 hr 40 min

→ Åndalsnes1 hr 35

→ Linge ferry pier1 hr 8

→ Dalsnibba viewpoint1 hr 17

→ Grotli Høyfjellshotell1 hr 41

The big one: Trollstigen and the Geiranger–Trollstigen Scenic Route, then up to the Dalsnibba Geiranger Skywalk.

Norwegian Mountaineering Centre, Åndalsnes
Norwegian Mountaineering Centre, Åndalsnes
Trollstigen
Trollstigen
View from the Geiranger Skywalk - Dalsnibba
View from the Geiranger Skywalk - Dalsnibba
View from the Geiranger Skywalk - Dalsnibba
View from the Geiranger Skywalk - Dalsnibba
Riding down from the Geiranger Skywalk
Riding down from the Geiranger Skywalk
Djupvatnet on the Dalsnibba road
Djupvatnet on the Dalsnibba road
A mountain lake near Strynefjellet
A mountain lake near Strynefjellet
The bikes on Gamle Strynefjellsvegen
The bikes on Gamle Strynefjellsvegen
Grotli Høyfjellshotell
Grotli Høyfjellshotell
The lounge at Grotli
The lounge at Grotli

Day 6 · Sat, Jul 15

Grotli Flåm

160 mi · about 4 hr 45 min

→ Bakery in Lom51 min

→ Mefjell mountain picnic51 min

→ Vardahaugselvi waterfall2 hr 4

→ Fretheim Hotel1 hr

Breakfast stop at the bakery in Lom, often called Norway’s best, then over the Sognefjellet Scenic Route, Northern Europe’s highest mountain pass, down to the Sognefjord and Flåm.

Pastries at Bakeriet i Lom
Pastries at Bakeriet i Lom
Breakfast at the bakery in Lom
Breakfast at the bakery in Lom
Bakeriet i Lom
Bakeriet i Lom
Lom Stave Church
Lom Stave Church
Snow and lakes on Sognefjellet
Snow and lakes on Sognefjellet
A rest stop on the scenic route
A rest stop on the scenic route
The back of an architect-designed restroom
The back of an architect-designed restroom
The architect-designed restroom
The architect-designed restroom
The Aurlandsfjord from Stegastein
The Aurlandsfjord from Stegastein
The Flåm Railway
The Flåm Railway
Fretheim Hotel, Flåm
Fretheim Hotel, Flåm

Along the way

Overnight

Fretheim Hotel, Flåm

Day 7 · Sun, Jul 16

Finse — a day off the bikes

Getting to Finse: there is no road, so it’s the train. Leave the bikes in the Fretheim Hotel parking lot, check the bags at the hotel and pack lunch boxes. Take the 8:22 am Flåm Railway from Flåm station, right by the hotel, up the valley to Myrdal, then change to the Bergen Railway heading east over the mountains to Finse station. It takes about 2 hours 12 minutes in all.

The hike: an easy hour and a half from Finse to Appelsinhytta, then about two hours up through Danskeskaret to the summit. It is steep for the first ten minutes or so, then crosses old snowfields (not glacier) with a close look at the Blue Ice.

By train from Flåm to Finse: the Flåm Railway to Myrdal, then the Bergen Railway, about 2 hr 12 min
By train from Flåm to Finse: the Flåm Railway to Myrdal, then the Bergen Railway, about 2 hr 12 min
A waterfall from the Flåm Railway
A waterfall from the Flåm Railway
Snow on the hike
Snow on the hike
Crossing the river
Crossing the river
On the hike with a local guide
On the hike with a local guide
Finse
Finse
Finsevatnet
Finsevatnet
Finse station
Finse station
Hotel Finse 1222
Hotel Finse 1222
A Finse 1222 beer
A Finse 1222 beer
Photos from the filming of The Empire Strikes Back at Finse
Photos from the filming of The Empire Strikes Back at Finse

Along the way

Ride videos

Overnight

Hotel Finse 1222

Day 8 · Mon, Jul 17

Flåm Voss

40 mi · about 1 hr

Bicycle down the Rallarvegen to Flåm in the morning, then a short ride to Voss.

Store Ringheim is a farm hotel: old farm buildings around a courtyard, in the same family since 1778, with six rooms (the most historic in a building over 300 years old) and a restaurant cooking from scratch with local ingredients.

Ready to ride the Rallarvegen by bicycle
Ready to ride the Rallarvegen by bicycle
The Rallarvegen route on the bike
The Rallarvegen route on the bike
On the Rallarvegen. The sign reads “Forsiktig – farleg strekning!”: Caution – dangerous stretch, for the next 0–2 km 😄
On the Rallarvegen. The sign reads “Forsiktig – farleg strekning!”: Caution – dangerous stretch, for the next 0–2 km 😄
Store Ringheim, Voss
Store Ringheim, Voss
The bikes at Store Ringheim
The bikes at Store Ringheim
Dinner at Store Ringheim
Dinner at Store Ringheim

Along the way

Overnight

Store Ringheim Hotell, Voss

Day 9 · Tue, Jul 18

Voss Stavanger

178 mi · about 6 hr 20 min

→ Vøringsfossen viewpoint1 hr 15

→ Langfossen2 hr 6

→ Arsvågen ferry1 hr 42

→ Eilert Smith Hotel1 hr 16

Back along the Hardanger Scenic Route past Vøringsfossen and Langfossen, and south to Stavanger.

The Eilert Smith Hotel is a late-1930s functionalist landmark among Stavanger’s old wooden houses. RE-NAA, on the ground floor, holds a Michelin star.

Another architect-designed restroom
Another architect-designed restroom
On the ferry to Arsvågen
On the ferry to Arsvågen
Eilert Smith Hotel, Stavanger
Eilert Smith Hotel, Stavanger
Our room at the Eilert Smith Hotel
Our room at the Eilert Smith Hotel

Day 10 · Wed, Jul 19

Return the bikes, on to Oslo

A 7-mile ride to return the bikes at AllSupermoto, then on to Oslo.

Breakfast at the Eilert Smith
Breakfast at the Eilert Smith
Returning the bikes at AllSupermoto
Returning the bikes at AllSupermoto

Overnight

Comfort Hotel Grand Central, Oslo

After the ride · Jul 19–21

Oslo

Dinner with friends
Dinner with friends
Oslo
Oslo
Vigeland Park, Oslo
Vigeland Park, Oslo
Leaving Oslo for Boston
Leaving Oslo for Boston
On to Boston for the next ride, in New Hampshire
On to Boston for the next ride, in New Hampshire