Traveling Woodpecker

United States / 2022

October 8–14, 2022 · Motorcycle tour

Las Vegas, Utah & Arizona

Six days and about 1,650 miles through southern Utah’s parks and back roads, from Kolob Terrace to Bull Creek Pass, Moki Dugway to Hell’s Backbone country, with the Grand Canyon’s North Rim and Zion to finish. We all agreed it was one of the best motorcycle trips ever.

miles
~1,650
riding days
6
states
3
national parks
4
Route map of the ride
The whole loop as ridden, about 1,650 miles.

National parks

Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef, Grand Canyon, Zion

National recreation area

Glen Canyon

Monuments & forests

Grand Staircase–Escalante, Cedar Breaks, Lake Powell, Dixie National Forest, Manti–La Sal National Forest

State parks

Goosenecks, Kodachrome Basin, Valley of Fire, Lake Mead

Arrive · Sat, Oct 8

St. George, UT

Conveniently on St. George Boulevard with easy access from I-15. Basic, adequate rooms, a cozy lobby for a late-night meeting and breakfast, and a welcoming front desk happy to share local knowledge. Café Sabor, a decent Mexican restaurant, is right next door.

Picking up the bikes at EagleRider Las Vegas
Picking up the bikes at EagleRider Las Vegas
EagleRider Las Vegas
EagleRider Las Vegas
Northshore Road along Lake Mead
Northshore Road along Lake Mead
St. George Boulevard
St. George Boulevard
The Ténéré at the Aiden
The Ténéré at the Aiden
The bikes parked for the night
The bikes parked for the night

Overnight

Aiden by Best Western

316 E. St. George Blvd, St. George, UT

Day 1 · Sun, Oct 9

St. George, UT Torrey, UT

259 mi · 6 hr 11 min (about 10 hours actual)

Kolob Terrace Road out of Virgin was a spectacular start: paved as far as Cedar Canyon Campground, then dirt up to Highway 14. We met 800 sheep on the way!

Past Cedar Breaks National Monument, lunch in Panguitch, then the magnificent Sunset Point in Bryce Canyon National Park before Highway 12 through Grand Staircase–Escalante.

We met 800 sheep on the way!
We met 800 sheep on the way!
Cedar Breaks National Monument
Cedar Breaks National Monument
Sunset Point, Bryce Canyon
Sunset Point, Bryce Canyon

Day 2 · Mon, Oct 10

Torrey, UT Moab, UT

269 mi · 6 hr 34 min (about 10 hours actual)

Another epic day. A leisurely ride down the scenic drive from the Capitol Reef visitor center, then a splendid road to Notom and over Bull Creek Pass to Hanksville and Moab.

Unpaved Bull Creek Pass was quite challenging and became the group’s favorite ride, though it tested anyone short on off-road skills: there were drops and spills, and a mid-way decision on whether to turn back. We pushed through, and it was the most adventurous and rewarding day.

A great Italian dinner at Il Posto Rosso, right next to the Red Stone Inn. The food was exceptional.

Broken Spur Inn, Torrey
Broken Spur Inn, Torrey
Ready to ride at the Broken Spur
Ready to ride at the Broken Spur
Capitol Reef
Capitol Reef
In the canyons of Capitol Reef
In the canyons of Capitol Reef
On the dirt toward Bull Creek Pass
On the dirt toward Bull Creek Pass
Up on Bull Creek Pass
Up on Bull Creek Pass
Multiple drops on Bull Creek Pass
Multiple drops on Bull Creek Pass
Roadside repairs on Bull Creek Pass
Roadside repairs on Bull Creek Pass

Day 3 · Tue, Oct 11

Moab, UT Bluff, UT

194 mi

UT-128 is a beautiful road along the Colorado River, followed by the La Sal Loop Road. After a taco lunch in Moab, south to Bluff.

The entry into Bluff was grand, riding between two great boulders to the Bluff Dwellings Resort & Spa. A very good dinner at the Twin Rocks Cafe: Mexican-style food on fry bread.

Jailhouse Cafe, Moab
Jailhouse Cafe, Moab
Bluff Dwellings Resort & Spa
Bluff Dwellings Resort & Spa
Twin Rocks Cafe, Bluff
Twin Rocks Cafe, Bluff

Day 4 · Wed, Oct 12

Bluff, UT Boulder, UT

~300 mi

Valley of the Gods and the Moki Dugway, then Ticaboo to fuel up for the Burr Trail. A section of the Burr Trail was impassable after recent rain washed it out, so we turned back north to Hanksville and took UT-24. It was a fortunate detour: UT-24 was beautiful, and UT-12 from Torrey to Boulder was spectacular.

Hell’s Backbone Grill was a great find, wonderful food at the edge of the wilderness. The next morning’s breakfast at Annie’s Place, oven-baked pancakes, was incredible.

The Moki Dugway
The Moki Dugway
The gray badlands along UT-24
The gray badlands along UT-24
On the dirt
On the dirt
This Immeasurable Place, the Hell’s Backbone Grill cookbook
This Immeasurable Place, the Hell’s Backbone Grill cookbook

Day 5 · Thu, Oct 13

Boulder, UT Grand Canyon North Rim

147 mi to Kanab · 81 mi Kanab to the North Rim

A treat to ride Grand Staircase–Escalante again. From Cannonville, Cottonwood Road past Kodachrome Basin to Kanab, then down to the Grand Canyon North Rim visitor center in the late afternoon.

Mangalitsa pigs at Annie’s Place
Mangalitsa pigs at Annie’s Place
Annie’s Place Bed & Breakfast, Boulder
Annie’s Place Bed & Breakfast, Boulder
Grand Staircase–Escalante
Grand Staircase–Escalante
Cottonwood Road to Kanab
Cottonwood Road to Kanab
The Grand Canyon from the North Rim
The Grand Canyon from the North Rim

Day 6 · Fri, Oct 14

Kanab, UT Las Vegas, NV

256 mi · 6 hr 9 min

Through Zion National Park, which was spectacular, more intimate and personal than the Grand Canyon. Then down to Las Vegas avoiding I-15 as much as possible; Valley of Fire State Park was a beautiful surprise at the end of the trip.

A feast at Milos, the Greek restaurant in the Venetian, to close out an intense six days.

Zion National Park
Zion National Park
Valley of Fire
Valley of Fire
Red rock in Valley of Fire
Red rock in Valley of Fire
A celebratory feast at Milos in the Venetian
A celebratory feast at Milos in the Venetian

Overnight

Resorts World / The Palazzo at the Venetian, Las Vegas